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Peter Do is Helmut Lang’s new creative director

Fashion

Peter Do has taken the top job at Helmut Lang, the brand announced on May 10, 2023. in the next chapter of [his] legacy,” he added.

Do will oversee the men’s and women’s collections from Monday, May 15, and will report directly to Helmut Lang CEO Dinesh Tandon. “We are thrilled to have Peter Do join Helmut Lang as Creative Director,” said Tandon, “his clear and innovative approach to design aligns perfectly with the brand’s ethos and heritage.” Do will continue to lead its own brand.

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Helmut Lang was founded in 1986 by the self-taught Austrian designer and has passed through many hands since Lang himself left in 2005 to work as an artist. It was first revived in 2007 when it was acquired by Link Theory Holdings, now a subsidiary of Prada Group’s Fast Retailing, which hired Michael and Nicole Colovos to lead a creative overhaul. The Colovos took the label in a contemporary direction away from the more avant-garde and artistic point of view of its founder. After the duo left in 2014, the label was run by an unnamed in-house design team until Isabella Burley, then editor-in-chief of Dazed, was hired as “editor-in-residence”. She brought in Shayne Oliver in 2017 to design her Spring 2018 collection. After that season-long experience, lesser-known Mark Thomas and Thomas Cawson briefly took over in 2019, leaving after the Spring 2020 season. brand is led by a team of in-house designers. Do’s hiring marks Helmut Lang’s most high-profile appointment since Oliver’s stint. Helmut Lang is currently owned by Fast Retailing Co.

Helmut Lang, autumn 1998 ready-to-wear.

Photo: Courtesy of hl-art

Helmut Lang, autumn 1998 ready-to-wear.

Photo: Courtesy of hl-art

Born in Biên Hòa, Vietnam, Do studied at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and received the first prize for graduate studies LVMH 2014. He cut his teeth in the ready-to-wear workshop of Phoebe Philo’s Céline before returning to New York to work with Derek Lam. He launched his eponymous brand in New York in 2018 and quickly gained an insider following for his severe, sharp cut and downtown appeal. He was nominated for three CFDA Awards and was a finalist for the 2020 LVMH Prize. Do held his first New York runway for the spring 2022 season, followed by two successively larger shows, but he sat out the fall season. 2023, which sparked discussions about the status of his label. Finally, at the end of last month, he presented a lookbook of essential pieces that he described as a “good reset”.


Joanna Swanson

Joanna Swanson is Europe correspondent at the Thomson Reuters Foundation based in Brussels covering politics, culture, business, climate change, society, economies and inclusive tech. With specific focus in breaking news, she has covered some of the world's most significant stories.